The Arctic is accessible to man only because of ice dogs. As hunters, haulers and guardians, for thousands of years they have been a vital link to nature. Dogs led the Sarqaq people out of Siberia and, a millennium later, led explorers to the North Pole. Amundsen won the race to the Pole because he relied on ice dogs. As the light returns to Greenland, we arrive in Scoresbysund with a troop of the only companions worth having.